Trying to get a ballpark of what my stock 2011 f350 with about 230k is worth the truck didn't run when I got it but after several weeks was able to get it going. The engine sounds great but it's derated for some reason and won't go over about 10mph part of the back glass is busted interior is pretty rough (don't currently have pictures) and I have the dash pulled out of it 4wd works as It should I'm sure I'm missing some important details so let me know if you have any questions I recently got a new job and don't get to mess with it as much as I'd like anymore any input is appreciated

I just finish a over haul on this 60 series no blow by no coolant pressure fuel pressure is 40 at idle temp 100 degrees. After a few minutes of running the truck pours white smoke out and will start to stall and then die. My over head is set correctly and my cam time pin is perfect and crank pin. Now my questing is is there another way to set timing could I have the cam 180 degrees out?

Just bought an f350 7.3 dually with 417k miles for $3200 interior is clean but the rear bed body is little beat up , is it a good deal ?

Getting more sound/"grunt" out of a 6.0 Powerstroke?? Fun little question for everyone here. Why do we like the sound of the 6.0 so much? I own two 6.0s and love both of them. The bark and whistle is quite nice and I had always considered the 6.0 to be just about the best sounding PICKUP, however my opinions have really started to change as I've been around other rigs.

Yes, the 6.0 has a nice and slightly grunty sound, but it doesn't have the soul ripping grunt a lot of V8s (gas and diesel) do (IMO). The 6.0 sounds "tiny" if that makes sense. Any time I'm driving around a buddy with a 7.3, 5.9, or a gasser with a good exhaust, the 6.0 just sounds so weak to me. Often I can't even hear it above their engines. I don't want something obnoxious, just loud enough I can hear my own exhaust and appreciate it when cruising with my buddies.

I'm curious if there's anything I can do to make the 6.0 have a deeper and "larger" sound. For reference, on my Excursion I have a Magnaflow 5 inch setup with with the 03 10 blade and cat delete, leaving a really nice whistle. On my 06 dually I have an RBP 5 inch exhaust with cat still in place, so there's quite a bit of bark but less whistle. Both sound very good in their own right, but don't have that big grunty diesel sound. Again, no hate to 6.0 owners, I love both of mine and they do sound pretty good. Please share your thoughts guys!

Hi Guys,

Previously I have posted a question but due to the circuit diagram in the post, it deviated from the original question. If you haven't seen the previous post, it's fine. I'll explain everything clearly below.

I'm working on a project where I need to control a diesel injector. This is an academic project, if it goes well it shall get into industry level, so looking for a standard Good approach.

The diesel injector is activated by an Arduino(this is the initial setup, and will soon switch over to stm32). The diesel injector is outside the engine in a separate setup which gets supplied by a constant pressure fuel pump driven by an ac motor(const speed). I'm using a MOSFET to control the injector. The MOSFET I'm using is IRLZ44N. The drain of the MOSFET is connected to negative terminal of the injector and source of the MOSFET is connected to the negative terminal of the injector's power supply (i have added flyback diode for safety circuit for injector). The Arduino controls the injector via the gate pin of the MOSFET. The power supply for injector is 12v SMPS.

The Arduino gets signal from the injector's supply and control wires, we tapped these 2 wires and gave them to an optocoupler pc817. This optocoupler's output is given to the digital pin of Arduino. Arduino mirrors this signal to the gate pin of the MOSFET. You might wonder why I'm using Arduino, if the setup goes well, I will alter the pulse in future. So that's why I'm using it.

Issues faced:

1) this setup worked as intended, but after sometime, that is, after 2-3 weeks of testing this setup, the injector has gone. We didn't notice any smoke or smell, but the injector stopped actuating. We lost 2 injectors in this journey.

2) we started the engine and maintained in idling for 60seconds and started our injector setup, we collected around 90ml of fuel at idling, which feels abnormal.

Now, I need a reliable approach for this project. It would be really helpful if someone can come up with some idea for this.

Thank you in advance

My friend runs a Mercedes shop but doesn't topically work on diesels. A customer is selling their 2008 ML CDI, 185k.

I'm looking for something comfortable to take long road trips in. I can get it really cheap but I'm not too familiar with diesels in general.

I'd like to get the opinion of fellow Redditors on it. I like that it doesn't have DEF and my buddy is familiar with everything with these cars except the engine.

I have a 1.4L 4-cyl CRDI Hyundai i20 that’s primarily used for high-traffic city commuting.

Over the last two years, my fuel economy has dropped from 13 kmpl to about 9 kmpl (30.5 down to 21.2 mpg), and the car now spews black smoke under hard acceleration.

I suspect gummed-up diesel injectors, but I’d love some advice on a few things before I start throwing money at it:

* Fuel Additives: Would running Liqui Moly Diesel Purge in my tank help clear the injectors and stop the smoke?

* Oil & Friction Modifiers: I’m planning to switch to synthetic oil after 3 years of running conventional. Would adding Liqui Moly Cera Tec or MoS2 (after the purge and oil change) actually help with engine longevity or smoothness?

* Italian Tune-up: Since the car never sees highway speeds, I’ve read an "Italian tune-up" might help clear out the system. Is this actually effective for a city-driven diesel, or is it a myth?

a request: If recommending specific fluids, please choose one of Liqui Moly, Shell, Castrol, Motul, or Gulf, as many of the niche/smaller American brands aren't easily available in my country.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Anyone out there have experience with aftermarket cats?

I'm currently looking at the Magnaflow line, but don't know if they're a gimmick or worth the effort (specifically the custom fabrication as you've gotta cut and weld).

Do they last? Lot of work and expense if they only hold out for the 5 year warranty.

So I have an 03 f350 powerstroke diesel, 6.0. I recently within past few months. Had hpop,done. Last week I changed heads,head gaskets,crank sensor, now it won't start. Scanner says ,"crank and cam sensors not sync, I've removed valve covers. Tried cranking, no real visible sight. A small amount down in passes siea

2nd gen Cummins 5.9L 24v 2001
Looking to see if anyone might be able to identify the noise in this video. The only thing I’ve seen moving is a slight wiggle in the tensioner. Tried to actuate the arm and it just spins the bolt.

I have been looking for sometime. Have a project with a 4HE1 Isuzu Diesel in a El Camino and im looking for a tune to get a bit more power... it has a mechanical zexel injection pump and it seems mechanical tuners have gone by the wayside. Does anyone know a reliable person in the PA area (closer to philly) that can do so??

Pic of car for attention

Getting ready to install a turnover ball hitch in our 2nd gen. Discovered an issue with the pickup tube in the tank so the bed has to come off. I remember when putting a turnover hitch in my 3rd gen it said the bed needed to stay on. Has anyone installed a hitch then put a bed on? I feel it would be easier to get everything in and torqued up without the bed. I know the measurements for the hole reference off the bed anyways.

Couldn't be happier right now, a dream truck for me. $7.5k and only needs some tlc for the most part. Dana 60/70, np205, getrag 360, and most importantly the intercooled ve 12 valve. Previous owner took great care of it, doesn't even leak anywhere. 300k miles, no blow by, starts on a dime, new clutch 60k miles ago. KDP is taken care of. The g360 has always been filled a quart and a half over. NM truck so zero meaningful rust and rough paint. 1 year old Cooper tires. Somewhat recently rearched leafs. Not perfect, but very happy with it, great bones.

The fass pump on my rig is located lower than I'd like smack dab in the middle of the frame. If I 4-wheel the places I have in mind, it worries me that it could be a critical failure point.

Despite owning several I've never actually installed a lift pump and I was hoping I could get help with a few questions:

-any issues locating it further back?

-should I get all new fuel lines or is running a brass insert coupler and a few feet of new hose enough to get the job done?

-any other things to be aware of?

Thanks!

I just bought a 2002 f350 7.3 automatic. Any good recommendations on coolant? High miles 340k.. I live up in Montana so high elevation and cold winters. Any other good to do recommendations are good too. I’m new to the diesel world. I’m going to run t6 5w40 rotella oil, but that’s as far as I’ve gotten. Planning on doing the fuel filter, oil filter, coolant flush, trans oil, new batteries, and some other odds and ends

Appreciate it
-jake

Okay, hear me out. I’m going to try to make this quick. Lol
Essentially is one more inherently fuel efficient than the other?

I’m currently have 2015 F150 5.0 V8 truck. It is NOT My Daily. My next truck will be a diesel and will be my daily for commuting on the highway unloaded (and towing heavy as mentioned more below).

Looking at years 2022-2025. I know these trucks aren’t famous for “Prius level MPG” but I want the most efficient one of my options below. I’ll get to that reasoning.

I need the diesel due to regularly pulling my camper and trailer long distances (581+ miles one way) that’s well over 1,100 miles round trip just on the highways.

I’m in the high mountain desert elevation and going from Montana to Arizona and Nevada 1-2 times a year towing a 22’ enclosed trailer a diesel is needed. I’ve been using my dad’s diesel on those trips but that’s his daily now and can’t take his. We also go from home at 5350’ elevation to the cabin a hour away at 6700’ elevation 2-3 weekends a month either pulling a boat, or 20’ flat bed trailer with side-by-sides most the time. Sometimes that trip is just unloaded if it’s only a 2 day trip and doing maintenance lol.

This diesel will be my daily also and that’s why I need/want the most efficient one when unloaded and not towing just commuting 30 miles to work each day with 18 miles on the highway.

OPTIONS: Chevy/GMC 6.6 Duramax engine or a Ram 6.7 Cummins engine?

I know the Ram is the i6 engine and the GM is the v8. I know the Ram has more torque but that’s not needed for my uses.

I’m mostly curious what will be the most fuel efficient engine while commuting unloaded?

TLDR: Unloaded, not towing anything will a 2022-2025 6.6 Duramax or 6.7 Cummins be more fuel efficient for commuting on the highway on cruise, when not towing?

Basically, is one more inherently more fuel efficient than the other?

Thank you all for your expertise!

If I remove the plastic oem fender flare is the entire fender white or does the bronze color continue through the fender ?

Hello again cause I don't know much but I was wondering what things I would need to put a turbo on the 7.3 I have and what I would need to do for it if you could help it would be very helpful thank you and have an amazing day/night edit 1 it's a work truck and I plan on messing with the pump till I get one, my first diesel and idk what I would have to do the for the exhaust

Hey guys. I have a coolant leak coming form underneath the truck in the engine bay next to the down pipe and passenger side exhaust manifold. Any ideas where this is coming from? I am a new diesel owner and have never dealt with coolant leaks before

Ford 7.3 IDI. The front main seal itself looks good and it's hard to tell where the oil is coming from, could the scoring on this speedy sleeve be the culprit?

On a 7.3 idi